Thursday, 2 October 2014

When is it the right time to consider euthanasia?


Many times our pets live full happy lives and die a natural, peaceful death from nothing more than old age.  However, there are some circumstances in which a pet becomes seriously ill or severely injured and his/her quality of life deteriorates to a point where we must consider the option of euthanasia.
There is never a right time to make this decision.  Often times a vet may give an opinion based on experience if the condition the animal is facing is unlikely to be successfully treated and suggest we consider the fact that we may no longer be doing right by the animal by keeping him/her alive.  However, the decision ultimately lies with the owner and we must then consider the signs that we can use to help determine if euthanasia is the right option.

An owner must monitor the animal's appetite and water intake as significant decreases in or even an absence of these over a prolonged period of time would result in severe loss of weight and energy.  Also observe if there is prolonged severe vomiting and diarrhoea that is unresponsive to medical care since the resulting dehydration will be devastating to the animal's quality of life.

Observe your pet's urination and stool.  If there is incontinence to the point where he/she frequently and uncontrollably soils him/herself, then skin sores and ulcers will develop that will cause discomfort and pain for your pet.

If your pet has severe, chronic pain that is unresponsive to pain medications, cannot stand or walk on his/her own, shows a definite change in personality displayed by constant isolation and lack of interest in playing or interacting with you or is displaying chronic laboured breathing, there is reason to consider humane euthanasia to bring an end to the discomfort and suffering.

Once the decision is made to have your pet euthanized, there are a few considerations to be made:

SAYING GOODBYE:
Try to think long and hard about the decision to avoid second guessing yourself.  Saying you are ready and making an appointment, only to cancel it because your pet appeared to have a good day and you think he/she is improving when the medical professional sees no evidence of this leaves yourself open to more trauma from the emotional rollercoaster you have placed yourself on.  As time passes, your pet's condition will worsen and he/she will be suffering more by the time you change back your mind.  Talk to your vet but also make your own decision based on your own research and feelings, then call and make the appointment and stick to it.

Include all affected family members in the decision making so that you are confident that all are in agreement,  On the day of the appointment, allow each family member to have his or her time with the pet to come to terms with the decision and say goodbye.

Explain the decision to children in the family so that you are confident that they understand the pet will not be coming back home.

Decide if any of you would like to be present at the time of euthanasia.  Some people will prefer to witness it, partly so the animal will not feel abandoned, and partly so that they will know that the process is indeed humane.

WHAT TO EXPECT:
Ask your vet lots of questions before the appointment about what is required of you and how the process will be carried out.  Ensure that your pet is comfortable for the procedure but also be mindful of the vet's request to ensure the process runs smoothly.  An injection is administered containing an overdose of a potent anaesthetic, so the only thing the pet will feel is the needle for injection. However, depending on the situation, eg if an animal is particularly anxious or aggressive, the vet may opt to administer a sedative before the procedure since the injection must be given very carefully into the right place with minimal movement of the animal.

Once given correctly, the drug works in seconds to minutes.  The vet will use a stethoscope to verify that the pet has passed away.  Keep in mind that for several minutes after death involuntary muscle twitches may occur and the bladder and bowels may be involuntarily emptied.  If you believe that witnessing this will be too traumatic for you, then please consider waiting outside the room.

After death, the vet will allow you to spend some time with you pet if you so desire.  You can then decide if you would like to take your pet for cremation, or if to take him/her back home for burial.

The topic of euthanasia is a very sensitive one.  We love our pets and sometimes feel that we should never choose to take a life.  However, there are times when allowing natural death to occur is a prolonged process during which time our pets may suffer intense pain and discomfort for a long time. Let us remember that above all we owe them a happy life, free from pain and suffering.  Even though we may miss them, they will continue to live on in our hearts.





Thursday, 18 September 2014

Dangerous Foods for your Pets

We love our furry companions and want to show them as much love as possible.  Usually, this means we want to share our food and special treats with them too.  Even though we are innocently including them and showing love, we may be accidentally harming them since some foods that are safe for human consumption are actually quite harmful to them.

Grapes and raisins are harmful to both dogs and cats.  For an unknown reason they lead to kidney damage, resulting in vomiting, diarrhoea, inappetence, weakness and decreased urine production.



Onions, garlic and chives are also harmful to both dogs and cats.  These foods damage red blood cells, leading to anaemia.  Affected animals will show signs of anaemia, such as pale gums and mucous membranes, weakness, lethargy, vomitting and diarrhoea.


Chocolate, cocoa and caffeine (found in tea, coffee, cold medications and pain killers) are all very dangerous and can be fatal to both dogs and cats.  Toxic levels lead to  tremors, seizures, hyperthermia, abnormal heart beats, coma and death.


Macadamia nuts can lead to vomiting, weakness and joint and muscle pain and should therefore be avoided.

Xylitol is a sugar free sweetener used in many chewing gums and candy.  It stimulate the pancreas to produce too much insulin in dogs and cats, resulting in low blood sugar.  It can also be damaging to the liver.

Alcohol and uncooked yeast dough both contain ethanol which is harmful.  It causes sedation, depression, weakness, hypothermia, liver and brain damage.  Very small quantities can be deadly to cats.



Fruit pits and seeds contain cyanide which can result in coma, tachycardia and apnea.
Leaves, some fruits, seeds and the bark of Avocado contain Persin which, in very large doses, can cause stomach upset resulting in vomiting and diarrhoea.

Some items are more harmful to cats than dogs. A number of human medications is deadly to cats due to the presence of acetaminophen and ibuprofen.  Tuna in large quantities is dangerous due to mercury toxicity.  It is also not a very nutritious food and cats on a tuna-only diet will be malnourished.
Liver in large quantities can induce a vitamin A toxicity, resulting in deformed bones, bone growths and osteoporosis.
Any treat in large quantities is discouraged especially in cats due to the risk of obesity and diabetes.

In the midst of all these warnings and precautions, it must be known that some foods are ok to use as treats for your pets. Once the portions are limited and the food is cooked, pure, not fatty and not highly seasoned, they may be used from time to time as a snack or reward.

Lean meat is acceptable, especially in cats since they require a dietary source of meat.



Some fresh fruits are acceptable, such as apples, oranges, bananas and watermelon, once the seeds and stems are removed.  Some vegetables are safe as well, such as carrots, green beans, cucumber slices or even a plain baked potato.  Cooked plain rice and pasta can be used.

We all want to treat our pets. Let's do the right thing and choose the foods that are safe to use, to prevent unwanted illness or even death.  Contact your vet for more information or advice concerning these foods, or others that were not mentioned that you are interested in.

Let's work together to keep our pets happy and healthy :)

Tuesday, 2 September 2014

Pets alone at home



Welcome back to school!
Because the new school term means pet owners that were on vacation for a relatively long period of time (such as teachers and older school children who could have been left home alone) have now suddenly gone back to work/school, their pets are now left home alone for the majority of the day.
Therefore, any health issues or accidents that may occur will go undetected for many hours. Some of these problems can be prevented or lessened if certain precautions are taken.

For a yard pet:
If the animal is going to be left in a kennel, ensure that
(1) the kennel is locked properly and the animal cannot escape
(2) the kennel is free from any materials that may cause injury (nails, loose galvanise)
(3) there is a fresh supply of clean drinking water, with enough to last the day and in a container the animal cannot tip over
(4) there is no food left all day for flies, rats or other animals to be attracted to it to spread disease.
(5) the kennel is free from direct excessive heat or rain
(6) the kennel has a familiar toy so ease boredom or anxiety.

If the animal is going to be left free in the yard, ensure that
(1) there is no way for the animal to escape the yard and run away or for other animals to come in and attack him/her
(2) there is an area of shelter available for him/her in the event of excessive heat or rain
(3) there is a fresh supply of clean drinking water, with enough to last the day and in a container the animal cannot tip over
(4) there is no food left all day for flies, rats or other animals to be attracted to it to spread disease
(5) there are NO chemicals or any poisonous materials in an area the animal may get access to
    

If the animal is going to be left in the house, ensure that
(1) there is a fresh supply of clean drinking water, with enough to last the day and in a container the animal cannot tip over
(2) there is no way for the animal to escape the house and run away or for other animals to come in and attack him/her
(3) there are NO chemicals or any poisonous materials in an area the animal may get access to
(4) there are no appliances plugged in that the animal may play with and hurt him/herself
(5) there are no very small objects or other inedible material the animal may want to eat and choke on within reach
(6) there are no sharp or easily breakable object within reach (eg. glass dishes)
(7) there is enough ventilation to prevent overheating (eg. a partially open window that is too small for the animal to escape, with burglar proofing to prevent access from the outside)
(8)  the kennel has a familiar toy so ease boredom or anxiety.

We have no choice but to leave our beloved pets to go to work/school everyday. Let's do our part to keep them safe while we are away and they anxiously await our reunion :)



Have a great term everyone!

Thursday, 21 August 2014

Why does your dog have a bad smell even after a bath?


When we take great pride in our pet's cleanliness, it is very frustrating and often embarrassing to find that he/she may have a bad smell even after a bath.  A healthy dog should have a pleasant or at least mild and tolerable scent when bathed monthly.  If this is not enough and the scent seems very offensive and strong, then we need to find out why to help eliminate the problem.

First of all, a bad scent may indicate a health concern.  Not all of these conditions are easily picked up by an owner, so a trip to the vet's office will help.

The vet will examine the skin, since fungal infections, secondary bacterial infections, skin allergies and some hormonal problems cause the skin to emanate a scent.  Once the condition responsible is diagnosed, treated and eliminated the scent will be removed.

Ear infections also contribute to an overall smell.  At the vet's office, the ear canal will be examined and properly cleaned.  An appropriate ear drop will be chosen to treat any problem which is observed, such as a bacterial infection or the presence of ear mites.  Talk to your vet about ways to keep the ear canal clean in-between visits without damaging it.

 

Bad breath, if severe enough can create an all-round bad odour.  Soft foods usually contribute to this problem by encouraging plaque build up and gum disease.  Early on in a dog's life it is better to introduce dry foods such as chow, since plaque buildup will be much slower.  If soft foods are fed, consider buying chew toys that encourage cleaning of the teeth, brush the teeth with flouride-free toothpaste and/or if severe enough, schedule a teeth cleaning visit with your vet.




Once your pet is examined and the cause of the scent is not due to any of the above reasons, then there are a few more things to consider as a pet owner to help reduce that "doggy scent".  If a dog becomes very excited or stressed during a bath, he/she may release a fluid from anal sacs, located around the anus.  This fluid is extremely unpleasant to smell and some may get on the fur and linger on long after the bath.  To avoid this pay special attention to washing the back area, around the anus.

Some breeds of dogs have lots of folds in the skin.  These areas must be carefully cleaned, even in-between the folds themselves as dirt may remain and encourage smelly bacterial infections.

 

Some dogs have a very thick coat.  After bathing, they must be completely dried so that the damp fur smell does not remain.  Very thick, long-haired dogs may be trimmed to make this process easier.  Dogs may be brushed to encourage drying, they may be towel dried or a hair dryer may be used on a LOW setting so as not to burn or irritate the dog's skin.


Lastly, your dog's lifestyle will determine the right frequency of baths for him/her.  If your dog loves to hunt and get dirty in the outdoors with unpleasant-smelling things like garbage or small dead animals such as birds, then there may be a need to bathe him/her more often.  Inbetween baths, a damp cloth may be used to clean small areas that may get soiled while playing.
Now that we have a better idea of the things that may contribute to a dog's scent, let's work together to help our canine companions get rid of any unpleasant smells.  Good luck! :)

Thursday, 7 August 2014

"Frog" Poisoning/Toad Poisoning


We commonly use the words "Frog Poisoning" but in fact the poisoning is caused by a toad.  Toads have rough skin with glands that secrete the poison.  Typically, dogs and cats are exposed to the poison when they bite or lick the toad out of curiosity and the toad secretes the venom in fear as a defence mechanism.  However, the poison may also be absorbed to a lesser extent through damaged skin. Dogs and cats may even ingest the poison from their food after a toad goes into their food bowl.



The poison acts quickly as it is absorbed through the mouth directly. It causes head shaking, excessive drooling or frothing at the mouth, vocalizations, pawing at the mouth, retching or vomiting. The mucus membranes may become red. In severe cases, heart rhythm disorders occur, apparent blindness, seizures, collapse, and death within as little as 15 minutes!


To help prevent death, immediate action is needed!! Carefully wash the inside of the animal's mouth with large amounts of slow flowing water, such as from a hose, continuously for as long as 5-10 minutes.


Give your pet plenty of water to drink and call your vet immediately!! Depending on the severity of the case, your vet may want to keep your pet hospitalized on IV fluids. Other symptoms are treated as needed, such as the seizures and heart-related effects.

Once your pet has survived, as always, prevention is better than cure. Try to keep toads out of your yard so that your pets will not have access to them. Toads like dark, damp places, so remove any old pots, water containers or ground-level bird baths. Ensure the spaces in your fence are too small to allow them to enter. Remove your pets' food bowls after feeding. Ensure that water in your yard does not stand still so that toads will not find it attractive to habitat, for e.g., use a fountain or keep fishes in ponds.

Be on extra alert for toads during the rainy season!




Wednesday, 23 July 2014

Wound Management At Home

At some point in time in a dog or cat owner's life there is that moment where he/she suddenly notices a cut or bruise on the animal's skin.  Often times the way the wound is dealt with at home before a vet can see and treat it determines how well it may heal or how serious the wound can become.

Treating an infected cut is quite expensive.  Clients are usually taken aback at the cost associated with the proper treatment of a maggot wound or severely infected cut.  Healing time is also long in these instances and clients may not be able to devote the time and care needed for these situations.  It is therefore better if proper care is administered before veterinary care is given.

Once the skin is broken, the owner should take care to gently clean the area with cotton and a diluted solution of Savlon, Hydrogen peroxide or Dettol.  It is important for these solutions to be diluted so as not to irritate the skin.  Be sure to dry the area after with a piece of cotton. In DOGS ONLY, wound and maggot powder may be applied sparingly to the area. DO NOT APPLY the purple spray that is used to treat wounds in farm animals, as this spray is irritating to dogs' skin and also the area becomes occluded so that the vet is unable to assess the extent of the damage. DO NOT APPLY Sevin's powder or any other poisonous chemicals that you will not use on yourself.


DO NOT USE any topical medications on cats since they groom themselves and may become poisoned if these chemicals are ingested.

DO NOT administer any oral medications such as tablets or liquids for any reason unless you speak to your vet.  Many human medications are harmful to animals and even though your intentions may be good, you may be causing more harm than good.



If the wound is a sharp, neat slice and hence may be stitched to ensure proper healing, do not apply ANY medication to it, and seek medical attention as soon as possible.  Once a wound is more than 10 hours old, it is considered to be contaminated and your vet may opt to not stitch it, to avoid developing an abscess.




Do not bandage any wounds before speaking to your vet, as bandaging creates a nice, warm, humid environment that may cause bacteria to thrive and set up an unmanageable infection.  Instead, leave the wound open until your vet has treated it and given advice.

These suggestions do not replace the need for a visit from your veterinarian.  They are only meant as suggestions for immediate care at home if a wound is noticed at a time when vet care cannot be sought immediately.  Once a vet has treated the wound, be sure to ask lots of questions and follow his/her advice closely to ensure your pet has a speedy recovery.

It may be desirable to confine your pet to a kennel for a few days to minimise movement which may damage the wound more.  Consider getting an E Collar for your pet if he/she is obsessively licking or nibbling at the wound.

 



Friday, 18 July 2014

Canine Parvo Virus

Intravenous fluids in a puppy
Parvo Virus is an acute (sudden onset with rapid progression and short duration of symptoms, in urgent need of care) virus that affects dogs, mainly puppies.

Because it is such a serious illness, by the time owners observe the onset of symptoms, there is already just a small window of opportunity to administer treatment to try to save a pup's life.

There is no cure for the parvo virus. As such, treatment relies on supportive care while the puppy's body goes through the devastating effects of the virus.

The most telling sign of parvo virus infection is the foetid (extremely unpleasant smell) watery, bloody diarrhoea. The presence of the blood is due to the damage that the virus causes to the gut lining. Often times the virus affects the gut lining so badly that "chunks" of flesh may be expelled with the diarrhoea. Other early symptoms include decrease in appetite, unwillingness to drink water, general lethargy (puppy appears quieter than normal, reluctant to play or run around, lying down a lot of the time). The puppy may also develop vomitting.

Proper care includes intravenous fluids, since drinking water is not enough to counteract the dehydration caused by the vomitting and/or diarrhoea. A puppy may also be given antibiotics to combat secondary bacterial infections. PLEASE NOTE that the antibiotics does not kill the parvo virus, it just kills bacteria that set up secondary infections, complicating the symptoms and lessening the puppy's likelihood of recovery.

Adult dogs may contract a milder strain of the virus, but this is so mild that sometimes symptoms are missed.
The virus is most severe in unvaccinated puppies, especially around 6-8 weeks of age and 3-4 months of age. In these cases the virus develops so rapidly and so severely that a high percentage of puppies die, even if given the appropriate treatment.

Owners of puppies must then be aware that while treatment must be given as soon as the pup appears to be sick, it is still not a guarantee that the puppy will live.
Each case is so different that even an experienced vet cannot predict the outcome of your puppy's illness. Sometimes, the puppy appears bright and very responsive and still dies overnight! Other times the puppy gets very sick and lethargic, almost unresponsive and over time steadily improves and recovers.

Please note then that after medical treatment is sought, it is a waiting game to monitor the progress of the puppy and decide when treatment may be stopped.

Parvo virus lives in the environment for a long time and may only be killed with bleach. It is important, then, for you to use diluted bleach to clean any and everywhere your puppy stayed while sick.

Since parvo virus is so deadly, it is much easier to try to prevent it. Here are some tips:
(1) until a puppy is vaccinated, do not let him/her roam the yard. Let him/her stay in a kennel away from other dogs or puppies.

(2) clean your puppy's kennel/enclosure with diluted bleach once or twice daily.

(3) start vaccinating your puppy at 6 weeks of age.

(4) follow your vet's vaccination plan by bringing in your puppy for vaccines on time, every 3 weeks for a total of 4 (for most breeds) or 5 (for rotts, german shepherds, dobermans and any mixes of these breeds) times.

I hope that this was useful. Please feel free to contact us for further information at 474-9750 or 693-1721... or leave your comments here. Here's to preventing parvo virus and helping keep our puppies healthy :)